Quastana
Featuring the latest from Jean and Jeremy Quastana
Loir-et-Cher
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(Jeremy and Jean in Jeremy's new cave in Loir-et-Cher)
Jeremy Quastana named Cuvée Bleu, Melissa Lavaysse, 2025 (left) after the label which is blue, but also after Melissa Lavaysse, his partner in life who helped him to secure the parcel of Gamay from which it’s made. Melissa is a wonderful artist who makes sculptures and textiles, often of octopuses, in a studio next to Jeremy’s cave. Her parcel is 2.4 hectares of Gamay in Monthou sur Bievre, with clay over eboulis calcaire. We got to taste Cuvée Bleu from both barriques and demi-muids when we visited the brothers Quastana in January. It starts in barriques, makes its way to stainless for vinification, and then goes back to barriques and demi-muids for aging. And now we get to enjoy it stateside, and it’s tasting fresh. Allez Les Bleus! (too soon? :/) |
One thing that became clear on our latest visit is that Jean Quastana, who is vinifying out of the old cellar near their family’s home and Jeremy Quastana, who has a new cave adjacent to the house where he and Melissa live, are making their own wines. Jean moved back from Mexico circa 2020, having spent some time there teaching French in Oaxaca with some unclear, but fascinating connection to the Zapatistas; their mantra Tierra y Libertad and the attending Zapata quote ''The land belongs to those who work it'' graces the front of his old vine Gamay label 'Tierra y Libertad.' Jean is pretty quiet for the most part, unless you get him on this subject FYI. For a while, the yarn was that Jean farmed a few vineyards and Jeremy was the Chef of the outfit. Over the last couple of visits, it's apparent that Jean is just as much a vigneron as his brother, however, winemaking and all. Jean's cuvées are all in tanks and barrels at Jeremy's original cave at La Filerie where they both grew up while Jeremy's are down the road in his new digs. Reflecting this development, we're now speaking of and marketing the wines as Jean's and Jeremy's, respectfully. They're all tasting great! Details below.
Jeremy was a protégé of Olivier Lemasson, in Loir-et-Cher right near Cheverny, and also of Marcel Lapierre in Beaujolais. Consequently, he vinifies in the style of Lapierre, embracing carbonic maceration, no égrappage, and sulfur only when necessary. Jeremy acquired vines right next to Lemasson, and the couple years he spent there had a stylistic and cultural influence. Like Lemasson, Jeremy has an appreciation for old vines, truly minimal intervention, and a general rebel-vigneron (AOCs, who needs ‘em?) attitude. Quastana is part of a very strong Loir-et-Cher contingency with a similar winemaking ethos, most notably Puzelat (Tue-Boeuf), Villemade, Venier, Tessier, and Bonhomme.
After starting with only two hectares, the frères Quastana keep adding to the vines they work with, including a brand new half hectare of Romorantin and quarter hectare of Pineau d’Aunis. They’ve also acquired a hectare of Pinot Noir. There’s now about 4.5 hectares of red vineyards in Monthou (1.1 hectare for Jeremy/young and old vines Gamay and Cot) 1 hectare for Jean (Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Pineau d'Aunis and Gamay Teinturier) and 2.4 hectares of Gamay owned by Melissa. All certified organic.
Jeremy was a protégé of Olivier Lemasson, in Loir-et-Cher right near Cheverny, and also of Marcel Lapierre in Beaujolais. Consequently, he vinifies in the style of Lapierre, embracing carbonic maceration, no égrappage, and sulfur only when necessary. Jeremy acquired vines right next to Lemasson, and the couple years he spent there had a stylistic and cultural influence. Like Lemasson, Jeremy has an appreciation for old vines, truly minimal intervention, and a general rebel-vigneron (AOCs, who needs ‘em?) attitude. Quastana is part of a very strong Loir-et-Cher contingency with a similar winemaking ethos, most notably Puzelat (Tue-Boeuf), Villemade, Venier, Tessier, and Bonhomme.
After starting with only two hectares, the frères Quastana keep adding to the vines they work with, including a brand new half hectare of Romorantin and quarter hectare of Pineau d’Aunis. They’ve also acquired a hectare of Pinot Noir. There’s now about 4.5 hectares of red vineyards in Monthou (1.1 hectare for Jeremy/young and old vines Gamay and Cot) 1 hectare for Jean (Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Pineau d'Aunis and Gamay Teinturier) and 2.4 hectares of Gamay owned by Melissa. All certified organic.
The Wines
Now Available
Jean Quastana 'Mutin' Sauvignon VdF 2024
A Sauvignon with melon-mint and citrus confit so rousing that you'll want to revolt. Yes, that's a panopticon on the label. Break out! Direct press to tank for fermentation before around 6 months in demi-muids.
Jean Quastana 'Eclate' VdF Rouge 2024
Older vines of Cot & Grolleau. Clawed from earth and sappy blue fruits laden with woodsy Loire spice. It reminds us of Lemasson. True carbonic in tank before aging 6 months in used barrels. No added so2.
Jean Quastana 'Tierra y Libertdad' VdF Rouge
Gamay & Gamay Teinturier vines about 35 years old on sandy / silex soils. Giving and fruity on silky textures with a taut, kinetic structure at 10.5 ABV. 7 day Carbo in stainless before aging in 225 and 228 liter barrels. No added so2.
Jeremy Quastana 'L'Endemique' VdF Rouge
80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay. The fruit comes from his neighbor, Domaine de Veilloux, located 500m away. The vines have been organically farmed for 20 years. L'Endemique is ruby in the glass, drinks fast, and there's delicacy in aroma and detail to spare if you can stop to consider them. Delicious.
Jeremy Quastana 'Melissa Lavaysse' VdF Rouge
Middle aged Gamay near Montrichard where the clay is denser, farmed by Jeremy and his partner Melissa Lavaysse. Semi carbonic maceration in tank before aging 5 months in neutral barrels and demi-muids. '25 is juicy and round with a melange of dried strawberry and cherry on the palate. There's a subtle structure here with a long, cordial cherry-like finish.
Now Available
Jean Quastana 'Mutin' Sauvignon VdF 2024
A Sauvignon with melon-mint and citrus confit so rousing that you'll want to revolt. Yes, that's a panopticon on the label. Break out! Direct press to tank for fermentation before around 6 months in demi-muids.
Jean Quastana 'Eclate' VdF Rouge 2024
Older vines of Cot & Grolleau. Clawed from earth and sappy blue fruits laden with woodsy Loire spice. It reminds us of Lemasson. True carbonic in tank before aging 6 months in used barrels. No added so2.
Jean Quastana 'Tierra y Libertdad' VdF Rouge
Gamay & Gamay Teinturier vines about 35 years old on sandy / silex soils. Giving and fruity on silky textures with a taut, kinetic structure at 10.5 ABV. 7 day Carbo in stainless before aging in 225 and 228 liter barrels. No added so2.
Jeremy Quastana 'L'Endemique' VdF Rouge
80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay. The fruit comes from his neighbor, Domaine de Veilloux, located 500m away. The vines have been organically farmed for 20 years. L'Endemique is ruby in the glass, drinks fast, and there's delicacy in aroma and detail to spare if you can stop to consider them. Delicious.
Jeremy Quastana 'Melissa Lavaysse' VdF Rouge
Middle aged Gamay near Montrichard where the clay is denser, farmed by Jeremy and his partner Melissa Lavaysse. Semi carbonic maceration in tank before aging 5 months in neutral barrels and demi-muids. '25 is juicy and round with a melange of dried strawberry and cherry on the palate. There's a subtle structure here with a long, cordial cherry-like finish.
Above: Jeremy and Lennie walking through the domaine vineyards near Jeremy's house.