Ludovic Chanson, Montlouis-sur-Loire
AOCs: Montlouis-sur-Loire
Varieties: Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pineau d’Aunis, Gamay
Viticulture: Organic (certified)
Size: 6.2 hectares
Terroir: Clay, Limestone, Silex, Flint
Varieties: Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pineau d’Aunis, Gamay
Viticulture: Organic (certified)
Size: 6.2 hectares
Terroir: Clay, Limestone, Silex, Flint
During one of our first visits to France in 2009, we had the pleasure of meeting Ludovic Chanson, a good friend of Frantz Saumon. Ludovic had just purchased and taken over a nearby estate from previous owner and retiring winemaker, Alex Mathur, after having a previous career in pharmaceutical research. He had yet to produce any wine, but we were hopeful. By the time we got to taste them in 2011, we were sad to hear that he had already been courted by another US importer. But, these things happen. Our friendship remained solid, and we continued to visit and taste with him whenever we were in town to see Frantz. And now, after seven years, we are thrilled to finally to be working with him.
The estate now covers 6.2 hectares, 5 of them planted to planted to Chenin Blanc, the rest planted to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, on the plateau near the village of Husseau (about a five-minute drive outside of Montlouis). Soils here are very clay heavy with a deep limestone base; many of the parcels are littered with silex and flint. The average vine age is 40 years-old and the estate was converted to organic farming in 2006, before Ludovic took over, and he has since achieved organic certification. Harvesting is done by hand in small baskets in one pass for the Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, and multiple passes for the Chenin Blanc, depending on the cuvée for which the grapes are being picked.
WINES
Gavroche: 100% Sauvignon Blanc. For this cuvée most of the fruit is grown on the estate with a small portion being purchased from organic-practicing neighbors. Rather rich for Sauvignon Blanc with a surprising amount of power. Fruit and minerals galore.
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Sans Pagne: A pét nat made from a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc; co-fermented in fiberglass, went through malolactic fermentation, and 15ppm total sulfur. This has always been part of Ludovic’s lineup and he has been making this cuvée since 2009. This wine is beautifully textured with soft, round bubbles, and a bright, lemony acidity.
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Les Pions: Ludovic’s pétillant originel (Montlouis AOC now allows what they call pétillant originel if made using Chenin Blanc, otherwise known as pétillant naturel). Made from young-vine Chenin. This is the serious stuff. Long, textured, and precise. It marries vivid fruit with intense minerality and verve. Beautiful bubbly wine.
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Les Cabotines: Chenin Blanc vines planted in Montlouis’ classic, austere terroir of poor clay soils with silex, pebbles, and flint. These grapes are harvested during the first pass through the vines, fermented with native yeasts, and aged in old oak barriques ranging from 1-7 years old. With 8g RS, this doesn’t quite fall into demi-sec territory as much as it reminds us of the old-school, more supple style of Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. With ample acidity and structure, this is some crazy good juice.
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Les Pechers: Here we have Ludovic’s demi-sec Chenin Blanc. He says that during the harvest he noticed the slightest bit of botrytis on the grapes, which lends depth and complex layers of fruit and savory tones to the finished wine. 17g residual sugar, 32ppm total SO2. Truly a classic wine.
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Implicite: Chenin from the last pass through the old vines, and according to Ludovic, these were “the most beautiful grapes you can pick.” After spontaneous fermentation in neutral oak, the wine undergoes a long élevage. Ageworthy and powerful with a fair amount of residual sugar, Ludovic determines this to be his vin de garde, though we find it utterly drinkable in its youth.
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Rigodon: Dry white wine, Sec. AOC Montlouis sur Loire. 100% chenin blanc from young stocks in four different locations in the Husseau section of Montlouis. The soil consists of sand with elements of flint and clay. Fermented and stored in tank for 7 months. Bottled in May 2023. Organically certified. 12% alcohol.
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Ich i Go: Ludovic’s only non-white wine. A rosé pét nat, made from a direct press of 80% Pineau d’Aunis, 20% Gamay, with only 15/20 ppm total SO2. Just the perfect balance of fruit and spice, with a saline edge and fine bubbles.
Bel-Ami: 100% Chardonnay from 45-year-old vines planted in clay soils with silex and a limestone base. It is fermented and aged in neutral barrique and is bottled in June once it completes malolactic fermentation. Fresh, beautiful mouthfeel with the perfect balance of savory and fruit. it has such a bright acidity one could easily be mistaken for this being made from Chenin.
Bel-Ami: 100% Chardonnay from 45-year-old vines planted in clay soils with silex and a limestone base. It is fermented and aged in neutral barrique and is bottled in June once it completes malolactic fermentation. Fresh, beautiful mouthfeel with the perfect balance of savory and fruit. it has such a bright acidity one could easily be mistaken for this being made from Chenin.